From the fire engine red cherry tomatoes in Palermo’s Ballaró Market to the lush green citrus trees heavy with blood oranges and bright yellow lemons, Sicily bursts with color.
The largest island in the Mediterranean, at the toe of the boot of Italy, Sicily is, at once, very much Italian, and very much not.
The Sicilian language is significantly different from standard Italian, the food has more Middle Eastern influence than any of Italy’s other regional cuisines, and the Phoenicians and Greeks were early colonizers of Sicily, while The Holy Roman Empire managed the mainland.
Interest in Sicily has increased notably thanks, first, to The Godfather trilogy, and, more recently, to The White Lotus which was filmed in Sicily. Wine lovers have discovered Sicilian wines which is what led me to Sicily.
Veritas Wine Tours, co-owned by Park Cities resident Bradley Anderson, organized a trip to Sicily that took us from verdant vineyards to black volcanic soil high on Mount Etna to azure seas splashing into ashen cliffs.
While there are no direct flights to Sicily from Dallas, travelers can fly straight to Rome then air shuttle to the capital of Palermo where there are stunning archeological ruins, historical sites, and a vibrant performing arts scene.
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Foodies will love Palermo’s massive winding street markets filled with exotic fruits and vegetables and seafood from fresh shucked oysters to live octopus.
Taormina is the glamour girl of Sicily. Corso Umberto is the through line to luxury shopping, but winding side streets lead to charming views, ample boutiques, and lovely cafés and gelaterias.
Mount Etna is an active volcano but don’t let that dissuade you from visiting. Volcanologist tour guides who love “Mama Etna” can whisk tourists up the mountain to tour ancient eruptions, snow caves, and a modern eruption that covered an entire hotel and ski resort.
The fertile volcanic soil nourishes vast vineyards, olive and citrus groves and world-famous pistachios. Restaurants and wineries on and at the base of Mt. Etna are worth booking. The minerally wines from Mt. Etna are gaining respect while being still flavorful and affordable.
Marsala, on the west coast of Sicily, is known for its fortified Marsala wine, salt flats, and the gorgeous baroque architecture in the city. Nearby Trapanese is a worthy stop that should include a day-long stay at the Acropolis of Selinunte, Greek ruins overlooking the sea.
Southern Sicily is worth a trip with its fascinating ruins in Agrigento, the charming town of Noto, and the deeply historic Syracuse.
Sicily’s coastline is about 620 miles long and offers diverse scenery and history. Trying to conquer the entire island in two weeks is inadvisable. Our itinerary covered northern Sicily with Marsala on the west side to Taormina on the northeast with day trips interspersed.
Summer travel plans are coming together, and Sicily is a great destination for travelers of all ages.
Travel Tips:
Palermo: Sicily is the birthplace of cannoli, a a tubular fried pastry filled with a sweet, creamy ricotta cheese and frequently topped with pistachios and chocolate. For the best cannolis, go to I Segreti Del Chiostro at Santa Caterina monastery where cannolis are made by nuns to order. You can then eat them and other decadent pastries in its beautiful courtyard.
Marsala: Baglio Oneto is a five-star resort set among vineyards and roses in Marsala. Gorgeous rooms, excellent food, a spa, and an infinity pool that looks onto the Tyrrhenian Sea. It’s the perfect homebase for day trips in the area.
Randazzo: You can find the world’s best gelato at Santo Musomeci in Randazzo, a quaint medieval village to visit on Mt. Etna.
Taormina: White Lotus fans will remember the colorful Taormina story line. The glorious hotel in which the main storyline takes place is San Domenico Palace, a Four Seasons Resort. It’s gorgeous and pricey. I stayed at the UNA Hotels Capotaormina which is perched on a cliff with the main lobby on the highest floor, and all amenities and guestrooms below, dug deep into the cliff. The rooms and food are only average but the pool and cliff tunnel to the beach are iconic.
The best meal I had in all of Sicily was the linguine and clams at Trattoria da Nino. It’s not the sexiest restaurant with the views but it’s a hyperlocal experience.
Author D.H. Lawrence lived in Sicily and his former home is now Villa Lawrence where the current owner and her chef teach students how to made Sicilian Caponata, busiate pasta, and other traditional Sicilian dishes that you enjoy at a long-table dinner.
If you want a seriously fun, interactive true Sicilian musical experience, track down Mizzica Mizzica Sicilian folk band. They play many private events but you can also track the down for public appearances.
If you want to focus on wine, Susanna Wriston is the founder of Italy Dolce Vita, a travel company that focuses on Italian wine tours. She’s an American sommelier who has deep connections in the industry and can curate special experiences for wine lovers.
Kersten Rettig, a freelance writer with leadership experience in the food and travel industries, resides in the Park Cities, where she is known as “the restaurant sherpa” for her expert recommendations. Follow her on Instagram @KerstenEats.
