A brewery in a bathhouse.
I drank a beer and ate some chicken wings in a bathhouse last month. It was a first-time experience for me. And not only does that brewery operate in a bathhouse, but said bathhouse is in the first American National Park. Furthermore, Superior Bathhouse Brewery is the only brewery in America that uses natural thermal waters for brewing, and it’s the only brewery in a National Park.
Hot Springs is full of surprises like that. A scenic five-hour drive or a quick 45-minute flight from Dallas, it is an appealing destination for friends, family, or couples to explore for three or four days.
A Brief History
Here’s a quick history lesson for you Yellowstone fans: Hot Springs National Park encompasses 5,550 acres within the town of Hot Springs. That land was designated as a national reservation area in 1832 to preserve and distribute its natural hot water resources. Even though Congress didn’t officially call it a National Park until 1921, Hot Springs was very much considered a National Park 40 years before Yellowstone National Park was established. I’d like to see what Taylor Sheridan can do with that.
Still kitschy in a small-town touristy way, Hot Springs has a lot of charm with its motor court motel offerings, Central Avenue shopping and dining, and its Bathhouse Row, but I found a level of sophistication I didn’t expect in the arts and architecture amid its stunning natural beauty.
Though you can fly into Little Rock and drive to Hot Springs, I recommend that you have your own vehicle, since there is so much to experience outside of the downtown area.
Explore the Natural State
Garvan Woodland Gardens is a gorgeous park located about seven miles south of Hot Springs on the shores of Lake Hamilton. Owned by the University of Arkansas as part of the school’s Fay Jones School of Architecture, the gardens contain not only botanical abundance, but architecturally significant structures. Modeled after Jones’ famous Thorncrown Chapel in Eureka Springs, Garvan holds the Anthony Chapel, a mesmerizing temple of architectural and engineering brilliance and natural beauty. Kids and adults will marvel at the Evans Tree House, a three-story winding structure perched high among the trees in the same park.
Speaking of nature in the “Natural State,” hiking trails in Hot Springs are accessible from Bathhouse Row in downtown, though there are trail heads with parking deep within the park. It’s easy to explore the park and the natural lakes in the area, including Lake Hamilton, where the Lookout Point Inn is a charming option for lodging.
Shopping and Dining
Downtown Hot Springs is easily walkable with most of the retail and restaurants running along Central Avenue, where Bathhouse Row is located. Though there are typical touristy shops, they are all different. You won’t find the same t-shirts and tchotchkes in every store. There’s a more thoughtful approach. The independent shops such as The Villa, the Gift Gallery, and The Savory Pantry are fun places to shop with more elevated merchandise.
Restaurants along Central Ave. start with Kollective Coffee and Tea where every item served in the restaurant is certified organic. They take their tea and coffee very seriously, with their own creative tea blends and roasted coffee. The restaurant serves high-quality food, including pastries, salads, and sandwiches (order the muffaletta).
Another must-visit restaurant is The Pancake Shop, the iconic breakfast spot that’s been operating since 1940. For lunch, dinner, or just drinks, visit The Ohio Club. Listed as the oldest bar in Arkansas, the restaurant is owned by a group led by former Dallas hospitality executives Saddiq and Jennie Mir who are bullish on Hot Springs and have invested in elevating the dining options there. The Mirs lean into the history of Hot Springs so much that The Ohio Club servers are called “story tellers” because while serving each guest, they regale them with anecdotes from Hot Springs’ heyday.
Hot Springs for Healing
The town’s centerpiece is Bathhouse Row, where eight original bathhouses, built between 1892 and 1923, line up regally on Central Avenue. All but two of the bathhouses have been repurposed but you can still visit them. One houses the National Park’s headquarters, and I highly encourage a tour of the facility with a Park Ranger who will explain geothermal science in a most entertaining way.
The Buckstaff Bathhouse is unmistakable with its striking blue awnings. It offers a full bathhouse experience in a rustic environment. I “took the baths” at Buckstaff which resembles historic bathhouse photos with plenty of white ceramic tile and sparse comfort. Consider me a convert of the healing powers of the hot springs. The waters were relaxing, hydrating my skin and loosening tight back muscles. For a more upscale experience, visit Quapaw Bathhouse.
The Arts
Hot Springs has a burgeoning arts scene. Like many cities, it has embraced the value of allowing artists to paint murals on building façades and offers a self-guided tour of the eight murals. There are a handful of nice galleries just south of the Central Avenue historical district worth seeing. While you’re over there, you can enjoy pizza at DeLuca’s or SQZBX Brewery & Pizza.
For more three-dimensional art, Dryden Pottery is collectible pottery made with local quartz. Guests can peruse items from the Dryden family’s 75-year history of creating works both decorative and functional. There are loads of beautiful pottery for sale. You might even get a live demonstration or take a class with 3rd generation potter Zack Dreyden while you’re there.
If you like getting dirty and doing treasure hunts, then check out Avant Mining in the Ouachita Mountains. This mine has produced some spectacular pieces, some of which have ended up at the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History and the American Museum of Natural History. They can’t guarantee you’ll dig up a gem but a friend with whom I was traveling unearthed a quartz the size of a softball.
All these things to see and do and I didn’t even mention that Hot Springs is home to Oaklawn, a Thoroughbred racetrack with connecting resort, spa, dining, and an entertainment venue.
Where to Stay
Hot Springs lodging runs the gamut from quaint motor court motels to Bed & Breakfasts to large chain mid-range hotels and local, historical hotels rich with charm. This isn’t a luxury destination so you’re unlikely to slumber on Frette, but you can find comfort here. The Reserve at Hot Springs, and the historic Arlington Hotel are great options.
Prior to my trip to Hot Springs in March, I had not visited in more than 40 years. My expectations were exceeded by the diversity of experiences here and the natural beauty of central Arkansas. I’ll return, and next time I might even play the ponies.
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